Nijō Castle (二条城). Certainly one of the highlights of Kyoto. The series of ornately-
decorated reception rooms within the Ninomaru complex is particularly impressive,
and known for its "nightingale floors" - wooden flooring which makes bird-like
squeaking sounds when stepped on. From the donjon of the inner castle, you can
get good views over the castle layout, and the rest of the city. Open daily, 8.45am-
5pm, with last admission at 4pm. Admission ¥600. Nearest bus stop: Nijojo-mae.
Nearest subway station: Nijojo-mae.
Fortifications
The Nijo Castle has two concentric rings of fortifications, both consisting of a wall
and a wide moat. There is also a much simpler wall surrounding the Ninomaru
Palace. The outer wall has three gates while the inner wall has two. In the
southwest corner of the inner wall the are the foundations of a five-storey keep,
destroyed by a fire in 1750. The inner walls contain the Honmaru Palace with its
garden. Between the two main rings of fortifications are located the Ninomaru
Palace, Kitchens, Guard House and several gardens.
Ninomaru Palace
The 3300 square meter Ninomaru Palace is built almost entirely of Hinoki cypress.
The decoration includes lavish quantities of gold foil and elaborate wood carvings,
intended to impress visitors with the power and wealth of the shoguns. The sliding
doors and walls of each room are decorated with wall paintings by artists of the
Kano School.
The castle is an excellent example of social control manifested in architectural
space. Low-ranking visitors were received in the outer, more gaudy regions of the
Ninomaru, whereas high-ranking visitors were shown the more subtle inner
chambers. Rather than attempt to conceal the entrances to the rooms for
bodyguards (as was done in many castles), the Tokugawas chose to display them
prominently. Thus, the construction lent itself to expressing intimidation and power
to Edo-period visitors.
The building houses several different reception chambers, offices and the living
quarters of the shogun, where only female attendants were allowed. One of the
most striking features of Nijo Castle are the "nightingale floors" in the corridors.
To protect the occupants from sneak attacks and assassins, the builders
constructed the floors of the corridors in such a way as to squeak like birds when
anyone walks on them.
Honmaru Palace
The Honmaru Palace has a surface area of 1600 square meters. The complex
has four parts: Living quarters, reception and entertainment rooms, entrance halls
and kitchen area. The different areas are connected by corridors and courtyards.
The architectural style is late Edo period. The palace displays paintings by
several famous masters, such as Kano Eigaku.
The Honmaru Palace was originally known as the Katsura Palace before relocated
to the present site and renamed. Originally the palace had 55 buildings, but only
a small part was relocated.
Gardens
The castle area has several gardens and groves of cherry and ume trees. The
Ninomaru garden was designed by the famous landscape architect and tea
master Kobori Enshu. It is located between the two main rings of fortification, next
to the palace of the same name. The garden has a large pond with three islands
and features numerous carefully placed stones and topiary pine trees.
The Seiryu-en garden is the most recent part of the whole Nijo Castle. It was
constructed in 1965 in the northern part of the complex. It is intended as a facility
for the reception of official guests of the city of Kyoto and a venue for cultural
events. Seiryu-en has two tea houses and more than 1000 carefully arranged
stones.